9th January, 2018…
Thanks to accolades from the country’s most highly-respected restaurant guides and endorsements from nationally-renowned food critics, foodies from all over the UK are now discovering the delights to be found in this historic market town.
So let’s take a look at the mouth-watering prospects in store for visitors in 2018:
Beginning with the “food bible, the 2018 Michelin Guide, star billing (literally) goes to The Pipe & Glass: This former coaching inn is set in glorious surroundings in the village of South Dalton, just six miles from the heart of Beverley. Run since 2006 by James and Kate Mackenzie, the pub and restaurant have gained an international reputation and many major awards, including a Michelin star (held since 2010).
The Pipe and Glass is first and foremost a friendly pub where you can grab a sandwich and a beer. But step through to its renowned and superbly-furnished restaurant and your gastronomic world is literally your oyster (from Lindisfarne, actually, served on ice with shallot vinegar) or any number of creative, cutting-edge dishes such as roast breast of pheasant, with pheasant and chestnut sausage roll, kale, pancetta, parsnips and pickled blackberries.
With five luxury boutique suites and private dining facilities as well, it’s the sort of place that will want you returning time and time again.
Also in the Michelin guide and Beverley’s only restaurant to be included in the 2018 Good Food Guide is Whites, which stands just outside the town’s historic North Bar. This boutique eaterie, with rooms, has just 19 covers but once discovered is never forgotten, with diners returning time and time again to savour the ever-changing four course and nine course tasting menus.
Only six restaurants in the whole of Yorkshire are rated higher than Whites in the Good Food Guide, which refers to chef/patron John Robinson’s “masterclass of top-notch cooking . . . the results are regularly stunning.”
The Michelin Guide refers to Whites’ “ambitious modern cooking” while another respected national guide, Harden’s, had this to say in its 2018 edition: “Chef John Robinson “is just exceptional and his passion shines through . . . every time you go he manages to create a menu that surprises the brain and taste buds.”
Acclaimed food critic Jay Rayner is among a host of national newspaper journalists to wax lyrical about Whites, telling his readers in The Observer: “It is the sort of smart if understated place that this country needs very badly.”
Just down the road is The Westwood, another that’s included in the 2018 Michelin Guide and the current holder of the “best restaurant” title awarded by the region’s tourism body, Visit Hull and East Yorkshire. Run by twins Matthew and Michelle Barker this modern brasserie is set within the magnificent surroundings of an old Georgian courthouse.
The Westwood is proud of its modern British cooking and using only the very best local produce. Beef is dry-aged prime Yorkshire beef, the wild sea bass, sea trout, crab and lobsters are from the shores of nearby Bridlington and Skipsea. And the sustainably-farmed salmon is smoked in the award-winning Staal Smokehouse just outside Beverley.
Newest kid on the culinary block, so new that it missed most deadlines for the major 2018 food guides, is the Pig & Whistle, located in the appropriately named Sow Hill, close to Beverley’s bus station. Owned and run by award-winning chef James Allcock, who was previously at Hull’s 1884 Dock Street Kitchen and trained under Gordon Ramsey, it has quickly created a buzz on the local dining scene, so much so it attracted the attention of Sunday Times food critic Marina O’Loughlin.
She had some nice things to say about Beverley in passing, comparing it to York, but waxed lyrical about what she described as “this terrific little restaurant” which she said was “the bewitching love child of Italian fiaschetteria, Spanish tapas bar and French bistro”.
The Pig & Whistle claims to be the first restaurant locally to promote the idea of “small plate dining” and Ms O’Loughlin praised both its atmosphere and food, including charcuterie and cheese plates as well as hot dishes such as breast of pheasant. “There’s a clever wine list and a lunchtime menu that is, for this bread and cheese obsessive, the very definition of heaven,” she wrote.
Harden’s Guide gives a shout out to Beverley’s only Japanese restaurant, Ogino, which they describe as a “hidden gem”. It may be “tucked away up a staircase in an unpromising side alley” but once you’ve made the effort you won’t be disappointed by what the guide describes as some “truly amazing Japanese cooking”.
Stalwarts of fine dining are both Cerutti 2, which occupies historic buildings at the town’s railway station, on the Hull to Scarborough line, and always boats a number of fabulous fish dishes, and the award-winning Tickton Grange Country Hotel, set in countryside on the edge of Beverley. Here, its Hide Restaurant, under the expert eye of local food hero and head chef David Nowell, showcases the very finest in local produce.
With Beverley also boasting numerous other local independent restaurants as well as many famous High Street chains, including Carluccio’s, Ask and Pizza Express, there really is something for all tastes. So much so you’ll be wanting to come back for more!l
Pipe & Glass, West End, South Dalton, near Beverley.
Tel: 01430 810 246. pipeandglass.co.uk
Whites, 12a North Bar Without, Beverley.
Tel: 01482 866121. whitesrestaurant.co.uk
The Westwood, New Walk, Beverley.
Tel: 01482 881999. thewestwood.co.uk
The Pig & Whistle, Sow Hill, Beverley.
Tel: 01482 874083. pigandwhistlebeverley.co.uk
Ogino, Butcher Row, Beverley.
Tel: 01482 679500. ogino.co.uk
Cerutti 2, Station Square, Beverley.
Tel: 01482 866700. ceruttis.co.uk
Tickton Grange Country Hotel, Tickton, near Beverley.
Tel 01964 543666. ticktongrange.co.uk